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Grand Canyon Tour - 2009


Type: Multi-Day Trip
Rating: Intermediate
Roads: Paved, good surface, some roadwork expected
Notes: This tour was planned around a 20 day schedule.





My first major trip of 2009 season is a Grand Canyon circle route. This year I'll be trying something new on the road, I'll be checking out wireless hotspots so that I can use Twitter to update my website while on the road. Indeed the code worked well to post my twitter log on the page while I travelled. My plan to minimize the cost and travel size was to use a Nintendo DS Lite as the platform for my first attempt. While this proved to be a great, compact unit which provided multi-function use, the browser was unable to deal with some of the more common security requirements at use on the road. If I could resolve the requirement for secure login which is used at many sites, I would be happy with this tool, however I think this may be beyond the limited use envisioned by Nintendo. I think I will spend more time on the technical aspects of this in a separate posting for those that may be interested.

General Route:

Vancouver, Pacific Coast of Washington and Oregon, Northern California then turning inland to Reno, Death Valley, Las Vegas (if you're this close, why not) and on to the Grand Canyon South. Flagstaff, Arizona and surrounding area, then on to the Grand Canyon North side (if the early weather has turned to spring). Inland again through Utah, Salt Lake City, and north again to southern Idaho and back through eastern Oregon and Washington and back home.

Day 1:
Vancouver to the Washington Peninsula
I decided to take the 'land route' to the Washington peninsula and enjoy a bit more riding and less ferry cost. The crossing at the border may take considerable time if you don't have a "nexus pass". Any border crossing should be planned in advance so that you are ready for the line-ups and requirements. (I myself tend to 'just arrive' and deal with whatever is going on. Not really the best planned approach, but since I rarely believe in a schedule, it has worked for me....)
I love to ride down to Mukilteo, and take the little ferry crossing to Whidby Island then across to Port Townsend. Best to check the ferry schedules in advance since you can get caught on the island if you miss the last ferry. The ferries are very motorcycle friendly, as most rural route ferries seem to be. I wouldn't want to arrive with a group of 20 bikes on the last ferry however, as this may push the limit of 'neighborly' riding.
Once on the peninsula at Port Townsend, Highway 101 takes you across the top of the peninsula. Depending on your timing, you can pick from multiple sites to stay overnight. From motels, hotels, bed and breakfast, to campsites there are many ways to take in the local hospitality.

AreaSite
Port AngelesSol Duc Hotsprings Resort
 Lake Crescent
La PushKalaloch beaches
 Hurricane Ridge
 Lake Quinault
Parks and RecreationWashington State Parks
Reservations
National Parks, Washington State

Day 2:
Washington Peninsula, Northwest
After the border crossing of day 1, this day is much more relaxed. Day 2 always feels like the first 'real' day of a trip. The strain of just getting out the door is gone, you've slept away from home and the road awaits you in the fresh morning air.
Today you can spend time on the road, again depending on your schedule, check out the fork in the road where Highway 112 leaves 101, this is a nice extension to the road. Rural and scenic, it travels closer to the coastline, and if you feel like a side trip, keep on 112 where it meets 113 (Burnt Lake Road) and you can go all the way out to Neah Bay (although this is an out-and-back ride) this is the western most point of Washington State.
Highway 113 takes you back to the 101 and on down towards the outer coast again around Olympic National Park. Around the western edge you pass La Push, on the coast and carry on down the western edge of the peninsula. After Ruby Beach, the highway travels right along the coast for a bit before turning inland again. Lake Quinault ends your inland direction as you turn southwest once again towards the coast.
ONce you reach Aberdeen you can choose to continue down the 101 or loop out on the 105 for a short loop right along the coastline. The 105 rejoins the 101 at Raymond, Wa a short distance south where the 101 continues on out to the coast and winds its way south on the water's edge towards the day's end near Astoria, Washington.
To be truthful, I could have spent much more time poking around this area. There are plenty of little places to see, nice roads (for the most part) and great sights to see. I suppose there are as many opinions on this area as there are visitors. It is beautiful and I'm sure you could spend days exploring every aspect of the area, however this trip was about going south via an enjoyable route. A more detailed ride in the Washington Peninsula will be fore another day.

Day 3:
Oregon Coastline
If you haven't been down the 101 on the Oregon coast, you have missed what I would call the quintessential "pacific coast". The wind from the ocean seems never to cease. Even the very landscape is bent to the will of the weather. Trees, shrubs and grass all bend in a mirror of the ocean waves which roll unimpeded all the way across the pacific ocean to wash themselves up on the shores of the Oregon coast. The road winds its way along the very edge of the continent, rising and falling in a wonderful counterpoint to the open ocean. There are plenty of places to stop and take a break, breath in the fresh air and gaze out over expanses of beach and shoreline which seem, for some reason to be perched on the edge of the world.
I couldn't resist the call of the Tillimook Air Museum, and who can with a sign that towers over the landscape on the side of the largest wooden structure in the world. It is actually a wonderful museum with great staff and a fabulous cafe for a bite to eat. Drive carefully once you are on the airfield roads as they are a little rough around the edges with some gravel spots, but nothing to really worry about.
The weather for this day was exactly what I always imagined for the Oregon Coast: overcast, with a hint of mist and light rain. Not cold, but real "sea-scape weather" to heighten the mood. The road is in great shape, while you wind between small towns dotted along the route, the road requires your attention, yet is relaxing enough to allow you to drink in the wonder of the landscape around you. I stopped often just to give myself time to enjoy the scenery. Just north of Coos Bay, you will find Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area. An interesting area with towering sand dunes, great scenery and some interesting activities if you fancy a drive (or ride) on the sand. The area also has several camp sites to choose from for a night on the coast. The weather can change quickly here, on a good evening you will be treated to a great sunset, clear skys and a great view of the stars. Mornings can bring a chill to the air as it flows in off the Pacific and a fresh start to the day.

Day 4:
South, to Northern California.
The day starts with a ride down the remainder of the Oregon Coast. This day started out much like the last, with some light drizzle and overcast skies. Again, the weather suited my idea of the coastline and the scenery did not disappoint. Wind, ocean and weather shape the Oregon coastline. Without warning, the California border appeared, complete with checkpoint and clearing skys. Almost as if the checkpoint was keeping an eye on the weather as well as travellers, the sky cleared and the temperatures rose sharply. Welcome to California!
The northern coast of California seemed much milder without the wind-swept look of Oregon. The highway cruised down the winding coastline with as much ease as ever under blue sky. I chose to ride only down to Arcata on this trip and then move inland via highway 299. This turned out to be a wonderful choice. Highway 299 winds its way up from the coastline into the hills and forests inland. The road surface is excellent and provides a great change in altitude and scenery. I quickly rose above the shoreline and into the hills and valleys of Trinity National Forest. As I moved on through the hills the road wound in and out of local canyons following old paths and the ancient landscape. In some areas, the road twisted so quickly that I found myself grinding footpegs at a mere 15 Km/hr through hair-pin curves on a shade speckled downslope. There was little traffic to bother me and I enjoyed the challenge of a new and interesting road to keep me company. I hardly noticed the time slipping by as I made my way towards days-end in the Whiskeytown / Redding area.

Day 5:
Inland
The day started warm and green. Heading east again through the forests of Northern California. Today is a short day as I'm heading for Reno, Nevada and I plan to take my time through the Lassen Volcano area. Highway 44 takes me east and up to the Lassen Volcano National Park. Here the peaks rise above and the air is cooler. The sunshine is bright and the views are spectacular. I took some time to view the volcano peaks and visit the small information stop to read the history and enjoy the open scenery. The whole area has been shaped by the eruption of Lassen Volcano in 1915. The record of the eruption occurred in 'modern' times and is surprisingly similar to the recent eruption of Mount St. Helens in detailed information and historical information. It is interesting to see the surrounding area nearly 100 years after the event and contrast this with the habitat around Mount St. Helens today.
The road is quiet in May and there are still patches of snow hiding in the shadows of the forest. Past the peaks, the road streches out towards Susanville. The scenery is classic and friendly, the roads even, easy and relaxing. On towards the Nevada border and the "Biggest Little City in the world", Reno. The afternoon finds me rolling in to Reno to enjoy some hospitality, blue skies and see how things have grown. Now, I'm not much of a gambler so the city lights interest me more than the casino floor. Reno struck me more now as an odd back-water of Nevada. There is still glitter on the front door and I'm sure there is plenty of gloss still left in the pan, however it feels somewhat tired. The outskirts of Reno have surely grown and the road in is lined with bedroom communities while the 'downtown' is tiny in comparison. The highway surrounding Reno is as large as they get and it takes me a couple of times round to make it into the city proper (I'm Canadian... what do we know about 6-lane highways.) I can hardly wait to setup camp at the local KOA and go exploring. The KOA here is little more than an RV parking lot but the folks are friendly. I feel a bit strange parking the bike and setting up my tiny tent while looming in the yard are a dozen or more giant shiney RV's complete with expanding living-rooms and televisions. Each to their own.